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we pulled the trigger on a new tigger..
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fj-rankenstein
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Joined: 06 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i may as well show a pic of the container i bought from Canadian tire.. it is a Plano model 4700 two level tackle box.. it was pretty skinny with lots of long skinny drawers and lots of dividers for some better options..

i ended up getting quite a few freebee's and the rest of the consumables are actually pretty cheap.. the only real expensive things are the tungstens..

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i also bought a grinder on sale at Canadian tire.. i was going to get the 6 inch one but the 8 inch one was on sale for the 6 inch price...


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my yard looks like a toyota dealership circa 1980
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Conrad_Turbo



Joined: 20 Jun 2004
Posts: 309
Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the Dude wrote:
Holy shit dawg, that regulator isn't cheap!

Are you able to fill the tube, tape it off, and turn off the pressure? Or does it need constant flow? I can see using a lot of gas....


As for flow, what Clay said. Very Happy It does burn up a ton of gas though, especially when you're back purging exhaust systems. Lots of volume to fill. I've been using a high heat Kapton tape (gold looking NASA stuff) on all the seams prior to welding. It helps seal the joints so less gas escapes, it doesn't leave a residue behind when removing and it also doesn't burn up if it's too close to an area that I'm welding.



Holy jeebus. You are very very well stocked. lol. I have never broke a cup and have about 4-5 of them in various sizes...you are well stocked. Very Happy

I don't really use my standard cups anymore, I only use gas lens with a large cup #10 typically.

Standard cup (photo off the net)

Gas lens cup (photo off the net)


What a gas lens looks like (photo off the net):

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Conrad Andres
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the Dude



Joined: 05 Dec 2003
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Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my new tig station:



My first ever tig weld:



followed by this:







Only had time to burn though two filler rods, didn't touch the tungsten once and had an UGLY uphand weld. Porosity cam from not flowing gas to start or stop (or forgetting to wait before pulling away)

My pointers from a complete NOOB:

Make sure your welding helmet is turned up! I found 11 just about right. I usually have it as low as I can go when using the mig.

My hands are sore. Not sure if this old man can handle feeding filler rod. The old arthritis is acting up.

I LOVE my Miller welding jacket. Thanks to My father in law for that.

My torch got hot by the end of welding those. Granted I had it cranked up to 210 amps, but I could see having a liquid cooled torch for heavier mild or chromo steel.

This is going to take some patience. I need to make up a couple dozen coupons for practice.
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Brad T.

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fj-rankenstein
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yay!!! thats awesome.. i knew you would be good right off the bat!! i am going to try mine out this weekend.. i cant wait..
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Rusty Runner



Joined: 05 Dec 2003
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Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started with but welding SS with no filler. Than increased the gaps and used filler. It helped me learn how to manipulate the puddle. If that makes sense.
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the Dude



Joined: 05 Dec 2003
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Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That makes perfect sense. I did start with no filler. It's kinda cool how this things works.

As many have said, the amount of control is a little overwhelming.

I can't wait to try more tonight.
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Brad T.

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CW Fab



Joined: 08 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How thick is your material?
A quick rule of thumb 1/8" material (.125) start with 125 amps and adjust from there. It's not a perfect science but gives you a base point.
Was your torch handle getting hot or just the head?
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Clay W



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the Dude



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it was 3/16 (.188) So I went a little beyond. I figured that most of my mild steel work is 3/16-1/4 so I would try on that first.

I was using a 1/8 tungsten cuz it was in the torch Confused I'll tone it down tonight and try a little more finesse and little less power.

The handle was getting hot.
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Brad T.

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Conrad_Turbo



Joined: 20 Jun 2004
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Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CW Fab wrote:
How thick is your material?
A quick rule of thumb 1/8" material (.125) start with 125 amps and adjust from there. It's not a perfect science but gives you a base point.
Was your torch handle getting hot or just the head?


Yep I was going to say good rule of thumb is 1 amp for every 0.001" of material thickness. So set your machine to 20-25% over and then you have some reserve with the foot pedal. The rule of thumb obviously varies for the type of joint being welded and material as well...but it gets you in the ballpark.

Looking good Brad!
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Conrad Andres
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the Dude



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bit more tricky with AL!! Shocked

3/32 2% thoriated tungsten with 1/16th and 3/32 filler.

amperage ranged from 80-130

I was trying pulse on, pulse off, cleaning set high, penetration set high etc. Every little thing made a difference. I am by no means ready to weld AL but I could stick two pieces together if I had too! Very Happy


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Last edited by the Dude on Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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fj-rankenstein
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have those same aluminum panels at home to.. thats funny.. Laughing


what kind of tungsten are you using for this??
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fj-rankenstein
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had an hour this evening to try out the tig.... this tig and I are going to become good friends.. Wink


i didnt end up trying anything fancy.. just laid some beads down.. i figure i should get the technique down first and all that stuff will come later..

i found this tig stuff to be extremely relaxing.. like, fall asleep relaxing. Laughing i can tell right now that i am really going to enjoy this.. i have had the chance in the past to try a tig out but it was a disaster and the person showing me didnt know much more than me both times.. now that i have had a chance to watch a shit ton of vids and do a ton of reading i found this to come a lot easier now..

a couple of things that i found i enjoy with the tig is to be able to tack stuff together without using filler rod.. and it holds super strong too..
the other thing i found is that i feel i can get away with a lot less filler metal and get an equally strong joint compared to the mig welder..

i really like how much control you get as well.. like Brad said, any little thing you do changes something about the weld you are laying down.. its very picky but its actually easier than a person would think.. i think the biggest thing is knowing where the pedal, filler rod and torch are in relation to your work and being able to syncronize everything well enough to get a nice strong bead.. i think playing drums for the last 15 years has really helped too.. Wink

anyways, here are my first official tig welds on the new machine.. i have a whole pile more i did after i took this pic.


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the Dude



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good!
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Brad T.

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varty yo



Joined: 22 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great!

Im very jealous that you guys are getting to use yours! It will be awhile before i get the new garage set up.
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the Dude



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

any recommendations for flap wheel and a grinding wheel for AL?

I'll google as well to see what's out there.

on edit:

It looks like Walter makes a flap disk for AL and SS
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